Manitoulin Island
"So Manitoulin…or Manidoo M’Nissing…Island of the Spirits…is my homeland. It used to be exclusively Odawa territory but as Anishinaabeg were forced out of other areas, it became a refuge for our cousins, the Pottawatomi and Ojibwe. The island was ok for a small community but the lack of good soil makes it so that agriculture to support large communities is impossible. Our Ancestors starved.
And of course the promise that the island would never be colonized was broken and our Ancestors were imprisoned to the least hospitable parts. The rugged terrain did protect our people somewhat and my Ancestors were able to keep language and culture alive despite Residential schools, and Manitoulin was colonized much later than Southern Ontario so our relatives knew what was in store for them and prepared.
Little Current is beautiful with art galleries and crafters and local breweries and theatre. Stay at the Manitoulin Conference Centre…it is co-owned by 7 First Nations around the Island and replete with Anishinaabe art and you can book rooms overlooking the North Channel.
A trip to M’Chigeeng is in order. Hike the Cup and Saucer trail for an amazing view and history, then go into town and visit Lillians.
And of course the promise that the island would never be colonized was broken and our Ancestors were imprisoned to the least hospitable parts. The rugged terrain did protect our people somewhat and my Ancestors were able to keep language and culture alive despite Residential schools, and Manitoulin was colonized much later than Southern Ontario so our relatives knew what was in store for them and prepared.
Little Current is beautiful with art galleries and crafters and local breweries and theatre. Stay at the Manitoulin Conference Centre…it is co-owned by 7 First Nations around the Island and replete with Anishinaabe art and you can book rooms overlooking the North Channel.
A trip to M’Chigeeng is in order. Hike the Cup and Saucer trail for an amazing view and history, then go into town and visit Lillians.
Keep going west and your next stop is Kagawong. Hike down into the Bridal Veil falls and bring a swimsuit if it is warm. It is amazing medicine to be behind the falls and then dip into the natural pool. West some more brings you to Gore Bay. Get a room or a cottage. Sample the local breweries and distilleries and restaurants…you want whitefish…it’s Anishinaabe super food. (I didn't follow this advice as I'm vegan!)
West still brings you to the more remote and rugged areas until you reach Meldrum Bay. If you are going to go that far, please stop in at Sheshigwaning First Nation for a snack or some crafts or their Pow Wow.
If you go south east from Little Current, you will come to Sheguiandah First Nation. The Pow Wow is a traditional one on the July 1st long weekend. If you want to learn, attend the sunrise ceremonies every morning and hear the teachings, then check out the museum that holds 10,000 year old proof of Anishinaabe history on the Island, and then watch grand entry at the Pow Wow at noon. It is amazing.
And last but closest to my heart, the largest First Nation land-wise in Ontario and the largest Anishinaabe First Nation population wise. The pow wow is fantastic and there is the entire cultural festival. So much to see and do https://wikytours.com/event/annual-cultural-festival/"
I also read these books, which cover some history, art (Manitoulin is well known for its indigenous artists), indigenous ways of knowing, and something of the current situation in this part of Ontario.
The Boy From Buzwah, by Dr Cecil King
Exploring Manitoulin, by Shelley Pearen
Portraits of Spirit Island, by Margo Little
Carl Beam: the poetics of being, by Greg Hill.
The art of Daphne Odjig, 1960 - 2000.
Seven Fallen Feathers, by Tanya Talaga
Plants have so much to tell us, all we have to do is ask, by Mary Siisip Geniusz
Film - Aakideh: The Art & Legacy of Carl Beam (on Youtube - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ExmLKxmT3k)
I made good use of the free local magazines and newspapers that are available at the Manitoulin Tourist Information Centre in Little Current (the centre is on the right just after you cross the swing bridge into town). The newspapers give extensive details of points of interest on the island, including all marked hikes, themed driving tours, and pow wows.
The Boy From Buzwah, by Dr Cecil King
Exploring Manitoulin, by Shelley Pearen
Portraits of Spirit Island, by Margo Little
Carl Beam: the poetics of being, by Greg Hill.
The art of Daphne Odjig, 1960 - 2000.
Seven Fallen Feathers, by Tanya Talaga
Plants have so much to tell us, all we have to do is ask, by Mary Siisip Geniusz
Film - Aakideh: The Art & Legacy of Carl Beam (on Youtube - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ExmLKxmT3k)
I made good use of the free local magazines and newspapers that are available at the Manitoulin Tourist Information Centre in Little Current (the centre is on the right just after you cross the swing bridge into town). The newspapers give extensive details of points of interest on the island, including all marked hikes, themed driving tours, and pow wows.
Getting There
I drove there via the Georgian Bay coast, it doesn't take any longer than the ferry route if you're heading first to Little Current. I stopped at French River Provincial Park (lovely walks and places to picnic, free) and Willisville Lookout (a good half hour hike to a wonderful viewpoint, also free). The gas station called S.N. Gas is good and cheap. It's on Highway 69 a few miles before French River. Heading back I took the ferry to Tobermory (book in advance) and stopped in the town so I could spend the next day at Bruce Peninsula NP for a long hike before driving the 3 or so hours back to Toronto.
Places to Stay
In Little Current the Manitoulin Conference Centre, as mentioned above. There’s a grocery store nearby which has all you need for picnics.
In Wikwemikong check out https://www.baysideresort.ca/
I’d advise against using any of the booking engines, such as AirB&B, Booking.com, Hotels.com, etc. They’re all unethical, one of the reasons being that they offer places to stay in occupied Palestine that have been stolen from Palestinian owners. They also take a sizeable cut from hotels everywhere, which means the hotel has to charge you more to compensate. I advise searching for the place you like (ask around on the 'What's doin on the Manitoulin' Facebook page, there are also several websites for cottages, apartments, campsites, etc), then getting in touch direct and asking for the room rate if you book independently. That's what I did this journey and it worked out well for me, and the hotels.
In Little Current the Manitoulin Conference Centre, as mentioned above. There’s a grocery store nearby which has all you need for picnics.
In Wikwemikong check out https://www.baysideresort.ca/
I’d advise against using any of the booking engines, such as AirB&B, Booking.com, Hotels.com, etc. They’re all unethical, one of the reasons being that they offer places to stay in occupied Palestine that have been stolen from Palestinian owners. They also take a sizeable cut from hotels everywhere, which means the hotel has to charge you more to compensate. I advise searching for the place you like (ask around on the 'What's doin on the Manitoulin' Facebook page, there are also several websites for cottages, apartments, campsites, etc), then getting in touch direct and asking for the room rate if you book independently. That's what I did this journey and it worked out well for me, and the hotels.
Pow Wows
Pow Wows on Manitoulin tend to be on a set weekend each year (like in much of Ontario). They’re all traditional style except for the big festival in Wiikwemkoong on the first weekend of August. Grand Entry (when all the dancers enter the arena) is generally at 12 midday, this is something you don't want to miss. If you can manage getting up early, the sunrise ceremonies are very important.
In 2024, the dates of the Pow Wows were;
Aundeck Omni Kaning - 1st weekend in June.
Wiikwemkoong Traditional - 3rd weekend in June.
Sheshegwaning - 4th weekend in June.
Sheguiandah - 1st weekend in July.
Wiikwemkoong Festival - 1st weekend in August.
Whitefish River - 3rd weekend in August.
Zhiibaahaasing - 4th weekend in August.
M’Chigeeng - last weekend in August/start of September.
A helpful website for finding out about Pow Wows in Ontario is https://northernontario.travel/indigenous/pow-wows-ontario-complete-list
Hiking Trails
Bebamikawe trail in Wikwemikong requires a permit, it’s $10 per car (and well worth it, it’s beautiful). You buy it on the way into town at the Wiky tours office, on the right. Every other trail is free, with parking available. Our favourites were;
Cup and Saucer - Bridal Veil Falls - Wagg’s Woods - Lewis Twin Peaks - McClean’s Park. The coastal trail at Misery Bay Provincial Park was also very good.
Indigenous Crafts
To buy paintings, crafts, clothing, and more, Lilians in M'Chigeeng is excellent. They also rent modest cabins. Check them out here - https://www.indigenousexperienceontario.ca/listing/9928/
There’s also the Ojibwe Cultural Foundation very nearby.
At Ten Mile Point lookout there’s another art and craft shop next to the picnic area. This is the view from the picnic area.
What's Special?
There were many times in Manitoulin when I looked out at a view and saw no powerlines, telephone poles, or any other sign of human activity. There were also frequent occasions when there were no mechanical noises - no planes overhead, boats in the lake, or cars. For me these regular opportunities to experience real, natural, life is something unique about the island. The Pow Wow was friendly, informative, and spectacular. If you're into birding then you will likely see lots of Sandhill Cranes - which are rare in other parts of Ontario - and American Kestrel. I also saw a great many Common Merganser and American Redstart.
There were many times in Manitoulin when I looked out at a view and saw no powerlines, telephone poles, or any other sign of human activity. There were also frequent occasions when there were no mechanical noises - no planes overhead, boats in the lake, or cars. For me these regular opportunities to experience real, natural, life is something unique about the island. The Pow Wow was friendly, informative, and spectacular. If you're into birding then you will likely see lots of Sandhill Cranes - which are rare in other parts of Ontario - and American Kestrel. I also saw a great many Common Merganser and American Redstart.
I haven't heard of there being public transport on the island, just taxi. I saw many cyclists on the long, straight, roads. Not too much car or truck traffic to bother them either (in July and August this will be different as that's the island high season).
Here’s a short film I made during our trip in June, 2024. I've made this video without any added music or soundtrack, so what you hear is what I heard at the time of filming. Often just birdsong and wind. It shows the Aundeck Omni Kaning Pow Wow, and hiking trails including the Cup and Saucer, Lewis Twin Peaks, and the Bebamikawe.
Here’s a short film I made during our trip in June, 2024. I've made this video without any added music or soundtrack, so what you hear is what I heard at the time of filming. Often just birdsong and wind. It shows the Aundeck Omni Kaning Pow Wow, and hiking trails including the Cup and Saucer, Lewis Twin Peaks, and the Bebamikawe.
